Beginner’s Guide to Custom Mechanical Keyboards: Switches, Keycaps & Kits

A Beginner’s Journey Into Custom Mechanical Keyboards

When people talk about custom mechanical keyboards (or “DIY keyboards”), they’re usually referring to building a keyboard that fits their own needs and personal taste. Compared to a computer, a keyboard’s structure is much simpler—and breaking it down into parts makes the whole idea less intimidating.

At its core, a mechanical keyboard can be divided into:

  1. Kit (Case + PCB + Plate) – This is the foundation, usually sold pre-assembled because soldering from scratch is time-consuming.

  2. Switches – The heart of the keyboard, defining feel and sound.

  3. Keycaps – The outer “look” and touch surface of the board.

  4. Mounting Plate – Technically part of the kit, but worth mentioning since the material significantly affects typing feel and acoustics.

If you’re already familiar with brands like Cherry’s Blue, Brown, Black, and Red switches—or PBT vs. ABS keycaps—you’ll have a head start. But diving into custom keyboards opens a whole new world of details, choices, and personal expression.

1. Kits – The Foundation of Your Build

The kit is the part you’ll replace the least, so picking the right one is crucial.

  • Hot-Swap vs. Soldered PCBs
    A hot-swap kit allows you to easily install or replace switches without soldering—just plug them in. The downside: it costs more. A soldered kit requires tools, patience, and rework if you want to change switches later. For hot-swap, check if the PCB supports both 3-pin and 5-pin switches.

  • Key Count / Layout
    Layout is one of the biggest factors in price and usability.

    • Full size (104/108 keys) – Includes numpad, more expensive, takes more desk space.

    • TKL (87 keys) – No numpad, but still practical.

    • Compact layouts (68, 64 keys) – Save space, but sacrifice keys like Home, Insert, Page Up. Only recommended if you really want minimalism.

  • RGB Lighting
    If you think you might want RGB later, buy a kit that supports it. Adding LEDs yourself is tedious.

  • Wired or Wireless
    Some kits support Bluetooth or 2.4GHz wireless, but keep in mind wireless latency is still higher than wired. For competitive FPS gaming, stick with a cable.

  • PCB Features
    Look for N-key rollover (most modern boards support it) and extra features like detachable USB-C cables. RGB effects and macros depend on the PCB design and firmware.

  • Mounting Plate
    Steel plates are standard, but many enthusiasts experiment with aluminum, brass, carbon fiber, or polycarbonate for different sound signatures.

2. Switches – The Heart of the Keyboard

Switches define the soul of your keyboard—the way it feels and sounds.

Many beginners start with Cherry MX switches (Blue, Brown, Red, Black). But in the custom scene, Cherry isn’t the king anymore. Gateron, Kailh, TTC, and JWK (among others) produce unique switches that often feel smoother, sound better, and come pre-lubed.

Types of switches:

  • Tactile (e.g., Cherry Brown, Kailh Box White) – A noticeable bump mid-press.

  • Clicky (e.g., Cherry Blue, Kailh Box Jade) – A bump and a clicky sound.

  • Linear (e.g., Gateron Yellow, Cherry Red) – Smooth, no bump, just straight down.

Parameters to consider:

  • Actuation Force (g or gf) – How heavy/light the press feels.

  • Stability – Some switches wobble less.

  • Lubing – Reduces scratchiness, improves smoothness, and eliminates spring ping. Some switches come pre-lubed; others you’ll want to lube yourself.

If you’re unsure, get a switch tester first—it’s worth it before buying 70–100 switches.

3. Stabilizers – For Big Keys

Large keys like Space, Enter, Backspace, and Shift need stabilizers. These can feel rattly out of the box, but enthusiasts usually “mod” them:

  • Clipping – Removing excess plastic for a better press.

  • Lubing – Adding grease to reduce friction and noise.

Properly tuned stabilizers transform the feel of a board.

4. Keycaps – The Personality of Your Board

Keycaps are where aesthetics meet function.

  • Materials

    • PBT – More durable, resistant to shine/oil.

    • ABS – Can feel smoother, but cheaper ones shine quickly (though premium ABS like GMK is highly regarded).

  • Legends

    • Top-printed (front-facing) – Standard vs. side-printed.

    • Shine-through – For RGB visibility.

  • Printing Method

    • Dye-sublimation – Durable, crisp colors.

    • Double-shot molding – Premium, legends never fade.

  • Profiles (Height & Shape)

    • OEM, Cherry, SA, DSA – Each changes typing angle and feel.

For enthusiasts, artisan keycaps (handcrafted, often like miniature sculptures) are highly collectible, sometimes more expensive than entire keyboards.

5. Maintenance – Keep It Clean

A custom keyboard can last years if properly maintained.

  • Wash your hands before use.

  • Use a dust cover or keycap puller to keep it clean.

  • Wipe keycaps regularly with a damp cloth.

  • Occasionally deep clean: remove keycaps, wash them, and brush dust from the case.

My Personal Journey

Here’s what I’ve used so far:

  • Unknown Blue switch board (my first, long gone).

  • AKKO Cherry Brown board – No backlight, side-printed legends, used for half a year.

  • Logitech K580 – A short-lived office board, sold secondhand.

  • Current custom build –

    • Kit: 87-key hot-swap RGB (Yichuan kit)

    • Switches: Gateron Silent Forest

    • Keycaps: Handu dye-sub PBT

Building it was challenging but rewarding—every press feels like mine.

Final Thoughts

Getting into custom keyboards is about much more than just typing. It’s about expression, experimentation, and experience. Whether you’re chasing the perfect sound, the smoothest feel, or the most unique aesthetic, every choice you make adds to the story of your board.

For newcomers, start simple: try different switches, learn about layouts, and upgrade as you go. Before long, you’ll discover that the keyboard is no longer just a tool—it’s a personal piece of art on your desk.